My wife and I are very fortunate. We own a small second home located in the town of Manteo on North Carolina’s Roanoke Island. We think that Roanoke Island is a hidden gem of the Outer Banks and we try to spend as much time as we can there. Find out why.
I have been going to the Outer Banks for a long time. I can remember riding the ferry at Oregon Inlet during the construction of the first (Bonner) bridge. Does anyone remember playing Quizo at the Casino in Nags Head (Kitty Hawk Kites and Outdoors today)? I do. There was also a small paved area on the side of the bypass where we would park and climb Jockey’s Ridge. That little space could maybe hold 5 or 6 cars and was rarely full. Long before the days of 10+ bedroom rental homes, we spent our vacations in the end cottage of a small court of two bedroom brick cottages. Those little cottages still exist in Nags Head.
We had a certain set of things we did each time we visited. Going to the beach and getting sunburned was on the schedule for the first day. Since we lived in Wisconsin we checked that off the list easily. One of the other days we would go to Cape Hatteras to see and climb the lighthouse. We would spend part of another day going to the Wright Memorial. One day that we always looked forward to was going to Manteo on Roanoke Island. Manteo is the location of the Dare County Courthouse and in those days the small downtown had stores where we could always find treasures for the rest of the trip.
Since we lived in a small town, Manteo just seemed familiar. Some might call it quaint or charming but to us it was a hidden gem. It was a highlight of each visit. At that time, downtown Manteo and Fort Raleigh National Historic Site were the places to visit. We would try to time our day trip just so. If we did we could stop at the crab shack at the causeway end of the old Washington Baum bridge. Steamed hard shell blue crabs would be our dinner that night.
Today when we are in Manteo I still enjoy the small town feel and enjoy many things that are available on Roanoke Island. Here are some of my favorites. Many years ago a trip to Roanoke Island would not be complete without a stop at Fort Raleigh. So, that’s where we’ll start.
Fort Raleigh National Historic Site
Fort Raleigh National Historic Site is operated by the National Park Service. It commemorates the site of the first attempts at colonization in what became the United States by the English. They first landed here in 1584 (yes, before Jamestown or Plymouth) and established a fort and colony. In 1587, 115 colonists were left here. The ships had to return to England for supplies. One of those colonists was Virginia Dare, the first English child born in what became the U.S. The supply ships didn’t return until three years later in 1590. The settlement and fort were in ruins. They found the word Croatoan carved into a gate post. The colonists had disappeared.
The fate of the colony is still a mystery. Croatoan referred to an area near Cape Hatteras so some believe the colonists moved there. Others think conditions with the Native Americans might have deteriorated to the point where the colonists were attacked and killed. Some think the surviving colonists may have moved to Southeast Virginia. The newest theory under consideration believes that the colonists abandoned their “Cittie of Raleigh”. They then moved about 60 miles into the interior of North Carolina.
Wander inside the replica of the fort built by the colonists in case they were attacked by the Spanish. Walk some of the nature trails beneath spreading live oak trees and enjoy exhibits in the park visitor center. In addition to the colony, information is also available about the Native Americans they encountered. Also find out about a Civil War Freedmen’s Colony that occupied the site and early experiments by radio pioneer Reginald Fessenden.
Nearby are the Elizabethan Gardens. Strolling through these gardens is a photographer’s treat with different blooming plants, no matter the season. In summer months the Waterside Theatre is the home of the The Lost Colony the nation’s oldest outdoor drama. First staged in 1937, “the play” as it is sometimes referred to locally, tells the story of the colony and a possible fate through song, dance and humor. The outdoor stage is larger than the stage at most Broadway productions.
North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island
North Carolina has divided the State Aquarium into three main locations along with Jenette’s Pier in Nags Head. One of them is on Roanoke Island. The Aquarium has become a can’t miss attraction and usually becomes an annual stop for many visits to the Outer Banks.
The North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island first opened in the late 1970’s with a modest selection of tanks and exhibits. After several renovations the aquarium now includes several fresh and salt water habitat exhibits including playful otters. There is also a sea turtle rescue program at the aquarium and a large tank exhibit which includes fishes and several sharks. The exhibit is based on the location of the wreck of the USS Monitor. This Civil War ironclad ship sank off Cape Hatteras in 1862.
Outdoors there are trails and areas to view the surrounding waters and also a site to search for shark’s teeth but you have to have a sharp eye. In my experience the teeth are there but they are mostly very tiny!
Downtown Manteo
Just as it was, downtown Manteo is still an enjoyable place to spend a part of a day. Although the stores have changed over the years, downtown has many shops waiting for you to explore. Maybe you’ll find the perfect treasure to take home! A sprinkling of restaurants and sandwich shops include offerings for anyone to enjoy whether you are looking for a quick lunch or fine dining. A series of inns and bed and breakfasts provide a variety of options for spending the night. One of my downtown hidden gems is the boardwalk along the waterfront. When we are in Manteo I walk into town and walk along the waterfront. In addition to the sights and sounds I enjoy the ever changing kaleidoscope of sky, clouds and water.
The Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse is also downtown and has quickly become the sixth lighthouse people add to their Outer Banks lighthouse checklist. Can you name the other five? This lighthouse is a replica of the original that stood in Croatan Sound and is a screw pile lighthouse. Screwed into the sandy bottom of the bays and sounds where these lighthouses were located, the pilings supported the lighthouse. A portion of one of the screw piles on the waterfront shows you what I mean.
Across from downtown is the Roanoke Island Festival Park. The park is the home of the Outer Banks History Center. From the Manteo waterfront it is easy to see the Elizabeth II. This ship is a replica of one of the ships the colonists used to travel to Roanoke Island in the 1580’s. When you enter the park you can go onboard. Don’t forget to experience several exhibits about the colonists and the Native Americans they encountered. There are also exhibits telling the history of Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks.
Coastal North Carolina Gateway Visitor Center
Near Fort Raleigh, on the other side of the highway, is an unassuming driveway that leads to my favorite hidden gem on Roanoke Island. The Coastal North Carolina Gateway Visitor Center serves as the information gateway to 11 wildlife refuges and one fish hatchery in northeastern North Carolina. All of them are within a days drive of the Outer Banks.
Whether you enjoy swans and waterfowl, are hoping to hear a red wolf howl or enjoy hiking, canoeing or kayaking in quiet waterways, this is the place to find out all about it. Exhibits show animals in their native habitats but also show how the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service manages the land for the wildlife.
You might also find out about Buffalo City, a bustling logging and moonshineing town that thrived for a time on the Dare County mainland.
Ah, Roanoke Island
This is only a brief look at a few of the things that make Roanoke Island a hidden gem and a great place to spend some time and sightsee. There are many more. I love having the time to travel to Roanoke Island to relax and explore. I hope you will too and perhaps find some hidden gems of your own. Happy Sightseeing!
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